I recently finished reading Dr. Vanita Rattan’s Skin Revolution meant for people of color. It was an eye-opener, especially when she said most skincare products are formulated keeping Caucasian skin in mind and are not exactly suitable for skin of color. Dr Vanita Rattan is a cosmetic formulator of Indian origin. She is a doctor who decided to pursue cosmetology to help people of color care for their skin better.

Here are some key takeaways from the book:

If you are more likely to tan rather than burn in the sun, you are considered to have skin of color.

Oily skin: After a few hours of washing your face, your skin looks and feels shiny.

Dry skin: Skin feels tight and uncomfortable.

Combination skin: Skin is often drier on the cheeks and oilier on the T-zone.

Non-comedogenic – a label may indicate that it won’t clog the pores. However, this is an unregulated term, and in fact I struggle to find a non-comedogenic cream without comedogenic ingredients.

Natural – another unregulated term. Natural ingredients often need to be synthesized to be useful in a product.

Start your PM skincare routine at least 2 hours before bed so you have time for actives to penetrate before your face hits the pillow and the product comes off on your sheets.

Ideally, you should introduce only one new ingredient at a time, just once a week, to see how your skin tolerates it.

Purging is when skin cell turnover increases and cells come to the surface faster. This means clogged pores also come to the surface faster so you see a fresh new crop of white heads, black heads and pimples. They were already in the skin and would have shown up in their usual cycle four weeks later, but rapid cell turnover (due to skincare) accelerated the process, so you see it all at once.

I have also seen natural products without preservatives, which leads to mould in your skincare products. This is not safe.

People sometimes feel that if the skin is tingling and burning the product is working, but actually the opposite is true, especially for skin of colour. We should not experience any burning with cosmetic products. If you do, please stop straight away and seek advice.

If you are a person of color, I highly recommend purchasing the book as Dr. Vanita Rattan gives detailed skincare and haircare solutions/tips for all kinds of issues that people of color go through, including hyperpigmentation, acne, dermatitis, and eczema. The book even has dedicated skincare chapters for men, kids, and pregnant women, making it a good reference book for the entire family. I would definitely refer to the book in the future before buying a new product or if I want to treat any particular skin issue.

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Photo by Riya Kumari